This error is third in the overall statistics (see Fig. 7). It is distributed evenly by category difficulty climbing, but significantly distinguishes athletes II level (50% of all cases).
Approximately half of the marked NA occurred at a time when there was a bunch of the lower or working without lanyard directly under the leading bunch and frustrating first leads to the death of several people.
The second half of the National Assembly, relating to the parsing error, it is necessary to defeat the belayer rocks ejected by the host.
Both groups of fatalities attributed mainly lack of experience on the rocks, and the dominance of this category II confirms this idea. Unfortunately, to develop a climber in training reflex — does not fit the work up mate is difficult. After a methodological procedure for training should include the subject comes from the top, which is "conditional" hurting the bottom, it would have been generated continuously, automatically tracking in front as a potential source of danger.
To some extent, given the experience can be formed at the event "Dombayskoy" and "Crimea" ligament, replacing "falling object" heavy penalty points for dangerous out by the master. So far, unfortunately, no such penalty points.
Another measure to reduce the number of injuries of this kind should be special training as a lead climber on the accuracy of loading rock ledges and go along with "living" stones. In this respect, some useful experience climbing sections, applying the control clockwise traverse at a safe height steep hillside quarry with "living" stones. The number of dropped stones is rated skill athlete and exercise in general increases the "purity" of walking on rocky terrain.
Do not stand by in front!
The golden rule is embedded in the consciousness of athletes at once, but over the years, experience, psychological and physical trauma.
Spasotryad with 6 instructors mountaineering base "Bezengi" raised the alarm in the morning: at the top Dykhtau injured party. Needed urgent help. By 20 o'clock the group went to the camp, established on the moraine before the tour. Short rest, and in the morning rescuers began to climb over the snow, and then the ice couloir. The rise in the darkness demanded maximum stress could.
At 5 am, it was almost light when they began to bypass the complicated ice-rock massif. The last bunch came to him when the first two were already at the top of kryuchevoy insurance. The place where they were staying, to have one minute rest (carved in the ice level, low slope). After collecting the rope in the ring of 18-20 m each, they were taking a breath. Who would have thought that you have to pay so dearly for that momentary relaxation! After all, they were not on the line of the self possible fall of the first bunch.
And at the top there was a hard job. Leading comrades warned that the place to which they came, the poor, unstable standing on cats, he was trying to score another hook. It had almost succeeded, when suddenly the side teeth of cats did not survive the stress and straightened. Athlete's foot slid down, and there was a failure.
Flying through the ice couloir 20 m, leading, fortunately, almost did not get damaged, and was detained carefully insure partner. However, in late fall, he knocked down one of the participants last bunch. If she would have got off all the self slight shock, but it was not! The incident disrupted mate bond, and both of them rolled down the 600-meter snow-ice couloir to the outputs of the rocks …
"Do not stand by in front!" Looking back, always amazed at how little had to be done, to avoid irreparable.