Dress code — storm suit, gloves, hat, protective helmet (helmet), high boots.
Personal equipment — ASC, two carbine repshnur (5 m), the loop for the insurance.
Equipment group — rope core (3 x 30 m), the auxiliary rope (1×30 m), rock hooks — 6, carbines — 6, rock hammer — 3 pack for two, first aid kit.
Techniques of movement on the rocks. Practiced techniques of climbing up and down the organization of insurance above and below. Carried out on the cliff tops with different terrain, up to 15 m Before working out specific methods of climbing instructor provides participants offices on all points, where in the course of employment can be arranged insurance. Explaining all these points, the instructor gives each job in organizing an item insurance. Conducts analysis, to find out from the participants admitted their comrades error when establishing insurance. Each participant must have been processed at least 2 — 3 points of insurance.
After this separation goes to climbing on top rope routes on 2 — 4 cc., Diverse micro-relief, focusing on the implementation of the rules climbing:
— route definition points change direction of the path, recreation, insurance, complex plots;
-compliance with the three points of support as the basis of equilibrium and stability:;
-sequence of movements of limbs, depending on the nature of the terrain;
-testing of any points of reference before they are used for climbing: the consistent and repeated use — capture, stop, thrust;
-load when climbing: legs stronger hands, and they carry most of the load, hands support the body in balance, moving through leg strength;
— proper use of friction, allowing significant savings of forces;
— Use spacers in overcoming these forms of rock surfaces, which can not be passed by using other techniques;
-smooth movement to save strength and resilience;
-sharply not to load a foothold;
-corner-cutting (vertical), the choice of the simplest ways.
Point to a significant difference between the outer and inner climbing. If the first free and natural techniques and learn them faster, then receive internal lasagna tighter and quickly lead to fatigue. Explain the application of methods, depending on the forms of relief. At these sessions do not touch artificial climbing techniques and methods of working on a ladder.
Climbing belay. Routes are not more than 3 cc The first to provide interaction skills of partners in the bunch. Belayer organizes its lanyard and belay partner in relation to the conditions of the route. Pay attention first to the correct choice of the way and paving the safety chain on the pitons hammered.
During employment acquainted with the methods of movement on difficult rocky terrain. On the example of the transition from the simple to the complex topography show the need to improve the individual qualities climber compliance of movement on the rocks, and in particular the security measures.
For the full working out all the techniques frequently change fear and climbing.
Techniques descent but fixed rope. Practiced techniques descent maillon rapide and sporting manner. Abseiling combination with the transition to the sport and vice versa. Carried out on the steep cliffs of up to 70 ° and up to 15 m or small couloir (check out the top part — if there was a collection of stones). Organized movement sporting way to work up and down. All points of fixed ropes shall be equipped with loops (rifles) to perestezhek. Instructor, explaining the organization of training schemes, removes all the ropes, and participants under the supervision of repeat networking reception point climbing or descending.
Prior to the movement of the rope to show the site to work Bachman (shotgun assembly) when going up and down and the position of the hands on the rope.
In developing the descent show the descent from the position of the rope on the body (Svan way). In this case, the node Bachman (shotgun node) is under the upper hand. Do not turn it under the lower arm with loss of equilibrium can happen turn and hit the body of the rock. Explain the advantages over the conventional method of Svan, but stress that it can be applied only after a confident mastery of classic sporting way descent.
When lifting to prevent hang on the rope and the hands, the body does not throw back. Read up on the relief on his feet and pull on the rope itself. Not require position of the rope between the feet have: rope also comes in relief, on the left or right of the body.
At this stage of training, receiving pure descent maillon rapide is fulfilled as acquaintance with the rules of his organization, landing on the rope — position of the hands and feet during the descent. All these provisions are fulfilled on a steep grassy slope or on flat rocks step. Mark psychological moment: crossing edge (border) area on the wall (the slope) so that the legs are not above the hull (the inevitable tipping) and place your hand under the warning release the rope in this transition.
A detailed description of the reception given to land on rappelling in "Sport Training" (partial fulfillment of norms II sports category).
Techniques of movement on the rocks in the ligaments, the insurance organization and interaction ligament runs. Classes are conducted on the strong character of rock ridge with platforms for insurance and downs. Before the release of the route to each participant branch score of 5-8 times a rocky hook them to have basic skills in the correct implementation of this technique. When moving in packs they will have to arrange insurance for the real hooks. Therefore, such a preliminary training is a must.
Explain the nature of the route, the structure of the rocks, the location of sites, their features, which can help when developing techniques of movement in the ligaments. Explain how the movement in the bunch. Recall the basic requirements for the organization of insurance. Note particularly the movement of several ligaments on the route and safety measures for this mode of transport, which are reduced to the following basic rules:
— first in a bundle should work on fear, as if interrupted it can knock it down;
-rise to make a little obliquely, if at disrupting the upper fall is "polumayatnikom" and can arrange insurance and stop falling.
During the movement to organize interaction ligaments "shuttle", explaining that when this method is used for the ascent, its advantages over pure technique (railing). Special attention is paid to the fact that the participants at the time perestezhek the rope to the rope did not go without insurance.
A large number of introductory tasks given by the instructor to his students while driving along the route, will quickly understand the features of the ligaments on the route, will give the opportunity to make decisions and find the best options tasks. More attention should be paid to careful handling techniques, and not on the speed passage of the planned route or the greatest climbing route, even if the introductory task was not given restrictions of the final destination on the day of class. Can be considered normal if a day of class separation is 300 m of the route and organize the two descent with change: sport mode and short maillon rapide with access to the grassy slopes or shelf.
In developing techniques hammering pegs show various combinations and the application for a particular character cracks. Describe the acceptable limits for release of the first bunch up from the last point of insurance depending on the slope and topography.
In training for each participant score of 15-20 hooks in the class, for this reducing the distance between the hooks to 1.5-2 m
Here it is appropriate to recall the basics of dynamic insurance, which we discussed when we talked about working on belay stand. In that case, the instructor believes that his students unwittingly complicated route or have a very difficult part, he is obliged to stop the movement of the route, to make debriefings offer by pupils to find a way out of the situation and the passage of the first in a new way to instruct the author of this solutions.
Organization descent ligaments. It should first be attention lanyard. Proper organization of one or two consecutive sports descents (and where relief allows, the combination of sports with maillon rapide) conducts the instructor. Without checking the right landing on the rope fastening a safety rope on the chest harness and check the top insurance organization members not to release the shutter.
Especially ensure that the participants did not fit the edge of the platform without advance organized insurance (handrails, hinges, hooks, etc.). Carefully monitor the position of the rope during descent maillon rapide, make sure that it extends below the top-insurance: this excludes its slide on the neck and the reversal of the participant during the descent.
Closing in conjunction with the free climbing down to be a climber, showed in all classes excellent results, different strength, concentration and precision on the insurance. Explain how the descent, possible options for the intermediate points of insurance in relation to the relief, and the inadmissibility of stones dropping down not only by the climber, but also on
negligence in handling the rope. Descend down each must find shelter, or to stand back from the line of descent to avoid the potential impact of falling stones.
The main objective of this lesson — to achieve the most complete and clear understanding of the characteristics of the ligaments on the route, the correct choice of the direction of the way, being able to read micro, identify places for insurance and hammering pitons. Conditions in the rocks in the ligaments have as close to the conditions of the climb.