By Enmyvaam boat

It was early morning when we started to load the boat. The plan was that the "Pelican" We are sailing with Slava, and the lander will be Uncle. There also we add up all his belongings, which still had accumulated more than a few. Boat we will lead by the reins, on the course, as thought Glory, a motor pulls.

After drinking tea, we started to drag things on shore. Kharitonov strict watch over all. At the beginning of the road to sail among the tundra, where you will not find a tree and fire pit. I gathered enough wood for a good week, but ordered to leave the glory of wealth only for two days. As we loaded the boat tent, sleeping bags, bottles of gasoline. The result was quite impressive mountain, which we hid tarp styanuv strong rope.

Hung over the lake white mist. He drifted strip about a hundred meters from the shore. Lake if still asleep, covered with a light blanket that. Suddenly, the morning silence was broken roar boat outboard motor. At full speed rushed past red motorboat neighbors. Three people sitting in it, have not turned their heads in our direction, we see very somewhere in a hurry.

— Yes, -, frowning suddenly remembered glory — a minute you throw these loaches, they treated you.

Two trout that I brought yesterday, of course, were not so hot what a gift. But throw them now, split and ready to ensure that slap in the pan and fry on the first parking lot, it seemed to me not that impossible, but simply blasphemous.

— Discard — ordered Glory. — Are they all the same, I will not. We'll manage. Themselves caught.

What to do? I wished I had a boat with fishermen disappeared in the fog. Maybe it would be better to give them back. But to argue with Slava was useless. Swinging, one by one, I threw into the water of the split char. What happened!

On the splash of water came flying herring gull. Seeing the fish on the bottom, it is something proklekotala displeasure, and her call arrived shortly second bird. They flew three. Fourth … Gulls were to fly to shallow one by one.

All lakes in the past, researchers referred to the fact that it is deserted, desolate, this is amazing. The birds seemed to set out to disprove it all. I counted already forty-six gulls, and they all continued to fly up. Great bunch they circled over the place where the fish lay on the bottom, swooped down on the water, but to break the layer of water and take them and decided not to. If he had not believed that a good fish can be discarded just like that … I guess they thought it was a clever bait, not otherwise.

— As to the sea, — smiled Kharitonov. — How do escort ships.

"Pelican" lying in the water. I crept forward, ready to see the first polar bear, if he will go to the river to the north. Glory sat in the stern of a suspended motors. He reeled in the trigger wheel motor cables, which have the power pulled, the hlestanul me on the back, and the caravan slowly started moving. To my surprise, a motor, not only pushed forward "Pelican", but also helped to drag tyazhelogruzhenuyu boat with his uncle. Posverkivaya glasses, with a constant cigarette in his mouth, in a fur coat and gently tourist cap, he sat in the boat just as common as the coachman on the box or on an elephant mahout. Rafting on an inflatable boat for it was the usual thing.

While we were sailing on the lake, so good. But hardly caravan plunged into the canal after the water flowing out of the lake, as the bottom of boats gnashed on stony bed. Motor at the same moment stalled, and it became clear that enjoy easy navigation is not necessary.

I had to disengage the boat, take the oars. The river was spreading into several branches. Stagnant water as if in a hurry to take a run through the green valley. And no matter how hard I tried, standing on the bow of the boat, shovel paddle, but we kept bumping the sandy shallows.

Glory groaned, shook his head, forehead wound up under the eyes, as the Indian magician, and assured us that if so it will continue, we will never get home. But I could not help it. Then I began to jump out of the boat to push her off the shoal. But here, too Thank begged me not to hurry, arguing that so I can break the "Pelican" in half. It turns out that "Pelican" was old, looks a lot like the rivers, patching-perelatanym boat. Then, to ease the boat, I was simply picking up on shore, and cutting off the loop, left foot forward. One day, waiting for the boat, I tracked down a galloping towards me fox. Shabby, black, he ran along the green banks of the river, looking for lemmings, and I took it easy on color film grehsotmillimetrovym "Tair". Fox, not suspecting an ambush, he ran up to me at a distance "portrait" movies, but then he saw the boat swims,

3 VK Orlov

paused for a moment, and then, vzmetnuv tail pipe, ran headlong into the mountains.

When stranded disappeared, swim, of course, was a fascinating pleasure. Sometimes occurred in front of the bushes. We wondered where the bushes on the tundra. But when swam closer, bushes lifted. This rose wild deer, relax by the river. Shaking huge antlered, throwing his head back, they light springy step slowly went into the plains.

In those first hours of sailing, we met a lot of deer. Small herds could be seen on the tops of their yellowish hills, where they defended the breeze. Sometimes deer grazing near the river, regardless of sailing boats. Ahead loomed the time a flock of geese. After letting us a shot, the geese flew and fell a little further down the river, as if determined to play catch-up with us. This went on for hours.

By noon on the west denote amazing blue clouds. Hour by hour they increased, approaching, becoming more beautiful. Getting out of the boat, climbing on hills, I wasted a lot of film, taking boats, floating among the yellow-green tundra in the background of the clouds, in the shower knowing that their approach does not bring us well. But so far none of my companions seemed not to pay attention to them, I decided to keep mum and me.

It was about four in the afternoon, we were on the road for more than eight hours, during which time I had to work calluses paddle namayatsya, pushing the boat afloat, many run on the tundra, making it easier to swim, and I was, in a word, it was unbearable. In the nose, "Pelican" was a hefty pot of soup specially prepared for the road. It's about time, I thought, to thrust, to dissolve a small fire but refuel. But the Commander is now mentally I styled glory, sitting motionless in the stern, staring forward, responded to my suggestion that they are "with Uncle used to swim in the morning until late at night and only if there is."

There is a saying: "Since its charter in Rome do not go." Still, I could not resist. I suggested a quick lunch now and then to swim at least the night. No visible pleasure Commander lost, but by eating hot PCMF certainly brightened. Lounging by the fire, let us glory and relax a bit, take heart. Needless to say, what's next swim immediately become more interesting.

Blue clouds already delayed half of the sky, a wall rising from the horizon. Drew chill, imperceptibly disappeared constantly looms in the distance deer. Not be seen, and birds. Nature seemed to lay low. Something was about to happen. It was time to worry about the night, and we sailed and sailed on, having started the race from the river useless and time, leaving behind a convenient place to stop.

It was dark so that the banks have become almost indistinguishable. Sprung up again on the beach, I jumped out of the boat and cherpanul boots in icy water. With chagrin, I gave up and walked on the water to the shore change shoes. And then it blew the first flurry. Howling, whirling wind, kicking up dust and dry grass, hlestanuli rare rain. I had to hurry to unload the boat, put the tent in the wind. Good thing, dressed in raincoats, had time to warm dinner on the fire to boil tea, drink a cup. Started downpour forced to quickly get under a roof.

Wind did not let up all night. In the crowded slept badly. Lightweights summer palatochka was for two people. And in the morning, when dawn broke, the tent flap, still continued to shudder and tremble. Namayavshis without sleep, I got out and had to immediately screw up his eyes. Everywhere lay dazzling white snow. Winter came. And it is for the winter wind raged. Cold, icy, and he strove to overturn, knock. "Yes, Commander was right that we should take the time — I thought — but with this wind to sail our naduvnushkah? Yes, even in this beastly cold? "

Looking for salvation from the wind, I went under the slope of a small glacier. Then it was quiet, and I thought it would be nice to move here so tent to wait here a few days, until the end of this hurricane. Wandering under the glacier, I found Kyle. Someone here has visited. Next to our tent on the cape I noticed from another tent pegs. But it was not necessary to investigate. Kharitonov got out of the tent, pulling cotton trousers, and called me over.

Instead of the planned eighty we were only twenty miles away. Sit in a lull, he flatly refused. We had to take the time to sail on through thick and thin, so he thought.

Icy spray flew in the face. Wind pressed the boat to shore, drove them into the shallows. Had for a long time wading knee-deep in water, while able to bring them to the rapids. The hard to give every one hundred meters. But the river from the rain and infused into it streams plumper. Sometimes it was possible to start the engine. Then we hitched a tow boat, about two hundred meters dragged her along. Then screw strike sharply against a stone, motor vzvyval — straining key. We had to turn off the engine, put a new key. But this time the associated boat certainly began to drag the stone ridge. I stood on the bow, hoping to lead an energetic paddle strokes "Pelican" of stones, but My uncle took up the oars, with a view to save the boat. As a result, at the most inopportune moment, one of the boats pulled another, pulling for each other or unfolded across the current. Glory cursing clutched paddle blaming everyone, of course, me. But in this situation get out of the boat and go ahead was impossible. Swimming became tense.

By lunchtime, the wind began to subside, it became a little easier to sail, was quieter and Commander, but the river has not yet entered into a single channel, and we often wound up with Uncle dispute which of arms rule. One day, while we bickered, boats thrown into a boiling stream, where as sharp knives, sticking black stones. Slip through without damaging the boat, in the first moment it seemed impossible.

— Where? — Drawl cried Glory, but his cry was lost in the roar of the water. Road back was not there. There was one: to bring forward, managing to maneuver between the stones.

After hitting a board about a boulder, flew to another boat tipped, another moment, it seemed, and foam flow will turn, dragged us over the stones. Track of time was for a split second, and then Glory remained without a paddle. Out of the corner of my eye I saw, resting them on a boulder, trying to make a start, he stiffened, and handle the oars broke down, like a match. I also had time to see his eyes wide with terror, but there was leeway given me the opportunity to do the right thing: to heel the boat to push off from one stone otgresti the rush to meet other … and "Pelican" escape from the trap. Us and the boat took off with his uncle.

Now reports to me was not for that, and the glory of silence. I knew that he finally believed in me and sail became calmer. But my advice to disconnect from the boat before he waved rifts. Without Uncle, he explained, when he's not there, go with boring.

Weather adjusted. Wind does verse. The sun shone, and downright eyes Tundra was dark. To the number of snow everywhere melted. On this time for lunch did not stop. River enters the mainstream, becoming deeper, longer and longer able to go under the motor, while keys are still flying one after another. That day we replaced them eighteen pieces. In the end we really got carried away, walked up to the darkness. However, the night stood only fifty miles from Lake El'gygytgyn. The river has played in our half of the planned, and there was little hope that once we manage to catch up.

I decided to sleep by the fire. The tent did not want to crowd. The sky was clear, the rain did not promise a night you can sleep in Kukule. Geological sleeping bag was light, waterproof and warm. I spread it around the campfire. Close to the roaring river rapids, crackled were burning rosemary sprigs. The darkness of the approaching close to the fire, and overhead psec flared brighter stars, thinking about making the worlds scattered in the vast expanses of the universe. "That's the way to live — I have decided for myself for the future. — Is not that the life of the river and truly never know. " Tossing, fell asleep — in the pit collapsed.

I woke up from the wild shrill screams. When he came to, lying on a beach in the bag tightly buttoned up, I immediately thought of a rod — the polar bear. "I came the same, — flashed through my head disturbing thought. — Smothers really, truly, anyone. " My position was not brilliant — no weapons …

Zipper pull, suddenly get up enough moments. Ready to jump out of the bag and run, I fell back in relief. Sadly, the shrill voices screaming birds. Two large black-throated diver swam in the water just steps away from the sleeping bag. Per night Kukul like inverted boat bottom up, covered with frost. Birds apparently could not think that in this frosted Kukule can hide people.

In the legs, not to cold during the night, I was lying with trehsotmillimetrovym camera lens. Always cautious, the birds were at this time very close. That would be a godsend to film them! Beautiful black-and-white uniforms loons reflected in the greenish water. Was clearly visible, as run away from sharp as an awl, black beak transparent drops. Still a little bit, and I was able to get a camera, but the birds came to life before. Wings hit the water, sprinkled my face with cold spray, and, raising his neck, broke away from the mirror surface and flew, cackling like a surprise talking to each other.

The weather was clear, calm. The sun had risen and promised soon to warm. Sprinkle with frost, I was "out of the bag, shook himself, and looked around with interest unfamiliar landscape — for the night, then get up vtemnote!

Yellow tent stood in the bushes of blueberries. Dark berries, stuck frost have cringed, but were quite edible and tender taste. Stretched all around the same hilly, green-yellow tundra. Close grazing deer — three females with two calves. Moving from place to place, pinching moss and looking around, they slowly approached the river. I stood with his back to the shore, and sat so long, watching the deer and many times to photograph them. Animals reached the shore, looked in my direction. As I was glad they did not rush away from me, and, slowly, as if acknowledging their own, went down the bank and crossed the river, I do not want to scare them, to break the harmony of the primeval world.

At eight in the tent began to play music. That woke Commander. Without the transistor radio in the tundra life he never imagined. And listening to him always before bedtime. and during the wake-up. Breakfast I was ready, it was possible to begin to fuse. But fame suddenly announced that everything does not make sense to rush. I could not believe my ears. Really starts quiet and interesting life? Yes, says Slava. Why rush somewhere, when there is such beauty! We must walk in the surrounding lakes, To collect algae, and along with hunting.

The fish have not caught Uncle, as he threw no trolling rod. And from the boat and from the shore. Although often in front of our nose noisily jumped out of the water, hitting the tail, rather large fish. Svezhatinki so we did not have, but canned food and other products would be enough for a few days. This, in its capacity as cook, I knew well.

— Maybe I should not hunt — I said, lifting a bag of food and shake them. — Look how many msego us!

— Little — posted glory — and we see deer chdes last. In the mountains, the deer will not meet. Better stock up on meat now.

I realized that his hands burned license to shoot, obtained in connection with the fact that we had to fly with limited stock items and products — all because of the spare barrels of fuel, but hold no more.

Kharitonov took several hours to explore the surrounding waters, collect samples of algae and get a deer. Uncle still unsuccessfully threw and threw into the river spinning, and carve a deer Glory offered me. I had a knife with him to go to the tundra. The deer was a beautiful, young, Shadowhide. I felt sorry for him. With him we can take only part of the carcass, everything else got it so arctic foxes Wolverine. No need for big, not dying of hunger, we killed this deer. But in my situation it was to argue with: it is imposed himself on the expedition, urged me not to go, but there is also consider-duddy.

The meat was delicious. We made a fire in a little more, having spent the last firewood, cooked roast, brewed strong tea, slowly, took heart. And began to gather, thinking surely reach shrubs, where alone could sit by the fire. With polar tundra we had to say goodbye after a few hours.

Boat firmly adhered to the "Pelican". Although the front of a roll, but even to me it seemed harmless. I agreed with the glory that will go forward on foot to photograph the moment when the caravan will overcome this rift.

The sun shines brightly, and all — boats, water, stones with white breakers — looked very impressive. Roll was overcome with ease, I just managed to make a couple of shots. Forces of the river increased, the flow rate increased, the boat carried as a feather. Glory is not without a pile managed to tuck the shore, and when I jumped into the "Pelican", immediately pushed off. Picked up during the caravan.

Ahead, on the right, began gray cliffs. The main flow of the river rushes to him, there was deep, the motor is working, and I began, seeing no reason to worry, reload the film in the machine.

The danger, in my opinion, could be on when endure in shallow water, there really have to look at both. But it turned out differently.

Inspired by the film rewinding, glancing to the side, I drew attention to the fact that the flow of water rushes past the rocks, and if we stand still, but the engine continued to run at full capacity. Only when he stalled, pre vzvyv, and in the silence they could hear the hiss of water, I realized that something terrible happened.

Getting up and turned around, I saw the first uncle who, arms, or pushed off the cliff, the one who tried to get on it. Our orange lifeboat with prinaytovlennym her weight during drove a small notch in the rocks and well kept there. A red nylon cord, which runs from the nose to the pink blade boat "Pelican", strained as a string, hold it in the rapids as a horse, caught the tail. Greenish water, drowning out the engine, a powerful stream flowed over the stern into the boat. Glory was already waist-deep in the water, next to a groping hand.

— Knife … where the knife? — He shouted furiously cursing. This knife I butchered the deer came back and gave glory, he put it next to you, instead of immediately sheathed. Now …

— Oh, uncle, drowning well — Due Glory, still not having found a knife, which alone can save us. Cost cut the cord, and we would happily have gone from a dangerous place, and now … I picked up the bag with the devices, ready to jump overboard. How foolish it worked out! Of course, do not drown, the water washed up on shore, but can keep the bag with the equipment? After all, only started swimming, and now even if the camera and save, then shoot it will not be long until you visit the shop. No luck. A year ago, burned in an expedition to the Taimyr Peninsula all the exposed film and equipment. And now again. All this flashed through my head instantly. Water has already filled the boat, it was time to dive. Then I clearly saw the very near a small ledge on the cliff. To him a tray of our boat. Without thinking, glad that it is possible to keep dry and film cameras, I took a step and was on the rock. On a small pristupochke within inches of swiftly rushing stream. Pristupochka holding a bag with cameras have not visited in the water and boat, which has led to the rapids like a pendulum pas taut cord was already far away from me. And Gut Glory found a knife. He furiously struck the nylon cord, the burst, and "Pelican" with glory in no time gone from my sight. A few seconds later the rocks rolled away and the boat, which, raising his hands, silently stood Uncle. Feed caught her and then blew. I was alone in the feet from the raging stream, without any assurance that I ever will be removed from here.

Was too strong for too weak our motor on pristupochke I could not sit down or even put the bag next. We had to do something. And I began to look for a comfortable place to start out. After all, do not know how long I will stay here.

This morning, I noticed that all the rocks in the talus. But to my surprise, they were tight bottom. Where helping himself with his hand, pushing his foot where I began to climb up and reach the small flat ploschadochki where you could not just sit and lie down. I would stay here and wait for friends, but in a joyful excitement that was saved cameras, get off the cliff, I climbed on. Comrades, it is clear, this is not for me, even about their business, get out of myself somehow. So I thought of climbing on scree.

With a widescreen device on his chest, holding a suitcase, this heavy bags with the staff and a few lenses, I climbed the debris to a height of three-storey house. I wanted to stop and rest here as scree suddenly began to move. Not fully aware of the danger, starting from escaping stones, I went upstairs. But after that started to move lower and upper rows of stones and rolled toward me. I barely had time to dodge, and rock flow rate increased.

"Got you, — flashed in the mind. — There can be no escape. " I even imagined Ruhnu in the river with a fractured skull and a broken arm and the flow by turning me like a doll, dragged into the depths. Swim, escape — there could hope to do. Without thinking, I put the bag with a camera on a stone — in the beginning of the struggle for life is just in the way. Stone immediately went down, and the edge of the ear, I heard a peculiar sound, jingling, rolled down and bag. I even made out as in the general din of rockfall she hit the water, but pity expensive machines do not have the time.

Getting rid of the bags, I immediately felt at ease, as if added strength. I dodged one of the other stone, hard kativshihsya on top of me, but the third did hurt, hit in the leg. The pain was bearable, I continued obstinately strive upward. Very thin twig of a plant came down, as if holding out his hand. I rushed to her, but the stones from under his feet went down, and at times I have reminded a fly, beating the velcro.

Jerk away from the rolling boulder. Skip it immediately put emphasis on the next, has not yet started to move the stone and, pushing it down, seizes a twig from the last effort. "Do not stand — the end!" But very thin twig holds. Not long, but this is enough to have time to move the weight on the other leg, lean against the stone, which immediately goes down and grab his hand in the turf. Now to catch up … and all … Saved!

A little rest, I crawled from black spot. I sit down. Weak in the knees. All wet. Sweat broke out, as in the steam room. Wipes his forehead. Devices on the bottom, and I'm ready to laugh with joy. To what turns out to be beautiful life! What a beautiful blue sky is! It is the sun! This red tundra and river, so quickly that runs underneath me. Itches terribly sweaty head, and without fear of ridicule, I get up and run his hands through his hair and scratching his head, as the year is not myvshiysya people.

Looking around the neighborhood and continue to admire the beauty of the landscape, as returned from the dead, I could not help but note that the two human figures are not where they ought to be: at the boats. And they are right in front of the place where he had just rained stones and where I said goodbye to life, climbing to the top. Yes, it was them, my comrades. Stands upright and looks at me Boris, and Glory … Somehow it sits. Hands covered his ears and in my direction was not looking.

— Hey, Glory! — I shouted with all his might. — Come experience. Get up. All right.

But Glory sat, hearing nothing, and should be, eyes closed, not to see a terrible picture of man's fall from the cliff. Then I learned that, having heard the noise rock fall, friends immediately felt something was wrong. Ran along the shore to the place and saw me wallowing on the talus of tears down the stones. But what could they do, how to help, standing on the opposite bank of the river? Glory helplessly moaned and melted down when I saw the bag with cameras, as told Uncle, sank to the ground, turned away and covered his ears with his hands. And sat while Uncle did not think on my signal pat him on the shoulder and say to get up, that's all right. Only then he turned around and saw me on a rock in one piece and without a smile hard, like a sick old man, stood up, his hand resting on the ground. He shook his head, no longer looking at me, he went to the boats. That happen to me, the burden of guilt, of course, would lie on his shoulders, but this time fate had spared us.

Being excitedly, unable to sit still, and not knowing whether I stay here or look for a place for himself running and crossing the river, I walked up and down the river bank, when the height of the cliff in the water he saw his bag. As to why it did not sink, I still can not understand. After all, it was the heavy camera and telephoto lenses. But the bag, rocking on the waves upside down, rested on the water, like a cork. And that is strange, is not powerful current swept her, and drove in the only, perhaps, in this place secluded creek and did not allow to get out.

— Glory! — Making the horn hand, I shouted with all his might. — My bag is here, near the shore. She drowned. We swim here.

Immediately remembered that in addition to films and photographic papers in a bag, the money for the trip. Last long afloat it fails. And if the sink in the same place, and even then it is unlikely it will be possible to obtain. Under the rocks is always a great depth. But fame and Boris to my call did not react, if he had not heard it. Stripped to their underwear, with power businesslike housewives are laid out on the shingle drenched belishko, sleeping bags, pressed down with stones some papers.

— Maps! — I shouted, slapping his forehead. Before leaving Slava asked me to put them in the safest place in my bag. If the bag will sink without maps we like without hands.

As it was in his underwear, algologist rushed to the "Pelican", with a spurt started the engine and drenched, barely breaking over, I swam to the specified location. The bag was saved. I exulted: everything was intact, and the joy, wanting to free from the worries of friends, walked along the beach in the opposite direction, safely down the cliff, and raising the boots, I decided to overcome the river ford. Taking a step and the second, reaching almost to the middle, I felt a brutal power of the river. Tight water flowed with such force that, do I step more, and I would like a sliver, spun in a whirlpool. I was confused, frozen in the middle of a random walk on the lips smile, but actually being confined to the site of a sudden fear of the river in bulk, which I recognized at once the deadly predator like a boa constrictor, capable at any moment with no regrets to strangle me as a mouse.

— Where to? Back! — Yelling, swearing, Glory, in rubber boots and shorts, with her flowing red hair hurtling towards me on the other side. For the credibility he also threatened me with a hefty punch. — Back and downstream! There you will take. And please, do not experiment.

I obeyed. Yes, you can not fool around with the river. All the time, we must be alert and ready for danger, and I'm just now, it seems, really delving into it. In fact just started swimming, and how many tests had to endure! Ahead Leonov thresholds marked on all maps. What, then, there will have to! .. How do I suddenly wanted to be at home now. Leave everything and go away. It appear beside the helicopter, without thinking, flew with him. I even began to play mentally option to return back foot. To those fishermen on Lake El'gygytgyn. So did not want me to continue this journey.

— Shock. It happens — reassured glory. — Gone. And thresholds could overcome, but, mind you, let's agree. Out of the boat, that would not happen in the future, do not jump on the rocks!

— And rolled in a bundle held — found it necessary to turn to remind me.

As a result, our encounter with the rock razmok bread, noodles and cigarettes had to throw. Washed rubber cement, drowned camera Fame. Lost plankton net. From my camera remained intact one that during the flood was hanging around my neck. Everything else was visited in the water. As I tried to pour water from a telephoto lens to do so and failed. She was left between the lenses. To capture and birds chverey I was disarmed. And if I just wanted to pass this river slowly, now thought only of how to quickly finish this journey.

Until the sun hid behind the clouds, we drenched dried stuff on the beach, and then began to gather. We had to swim further. Here, we were not able to warm up by the fire, firewood, we were gone. With a sense of fear of the river, I would sit on his place in the boat. But Enmyvaam took us graciously. The bed of it as soon as passed clamp that brought us so much trouble, straightened, began to resemble a channel created by human hands. The bottom was perfect — no dangerous boulders, solid blue-gray pebbles. Engine worked with some gusto, never sneezed. And my fear began to gradually take place. We quickly passed through the foothills and entered the gorge, Ilir neyskogo Ridge.

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