Lifting techniques from the crack of the victim, the ability to move independently, are shown in Fig. 38, a, b, c.
In the fall of a partner in a crack, you must first fix the rope and organize reliable insurance lifeguards. When the snow is deep attachment to an ice-ax is not enough, additional fastening means in the form of snow shovels, snow anchors (eg, dig in and trample down the backpack.) Only reliably securing the rope, you can go to the edge of the crack and start organizing recovery.
Is very important to the system linking the motion of the glacier. The rope is divided into three parts. Partners in conjunction attached to it in the middle third, and the free ends hidden in a backpack in case you have to pull out a partner who is in the crack. At a distance of about 70 cm from the point of attachment to the rope knitted loop (node conductor) for ice axes. In addition, each partner should have a loop of the auxiliary rope, one end of which is worn on the foot stirrup, and the second threaded a chest harness and attached to the main rope grasps node. This method is more convenient than a loop of rope, hidden in a pocket, for the fall in the crack can create a situation where the loop to get out of the pocket is difficult or impossible.
In organizing the lifting of the crack rope cuts sometimes snow cornice falls and rises in an awkward position. Part of this can be prevented either by delays, preferably on video (Fig. 38, d), mounted on the other side of the crack, or enclosing a rope in its inflection backpack or jackets.
Even a short stay in the crack leads to severe hypothermia. Therefore, if a rescue operation is delayed for some reason, you should take steps to intense warming of the victim (later he was the kind of thing to wear, hot water if possible). It is best to quickly lift the victim and all the measures already taken upstairs.
Often it is necessary to transport the victim to closed glacier, cross the wide cracks, overcome ice falls. Crucial here are the careful organization of movement, path selection, handling difficult areas, the establishment of crossings. A sufficient number of porters, and process the way the parent group under the guidance of an experienced climber rescue, which can be changed by porters. At the head of the group is paving the way two: her duties include marking of mined areas, and especially the discovery of closed fractures.
For the organization of the cable car ferries is not necessarily a time to knit complex and cumbersome system. Three to five strong men freely pull the road by hand, and you can apply to fix a few kinks to the ice column or specially processed serac. However, if the transportation, is carried out by a small group, the whole process much more complicated. Due to lack of equipment, and the first pitches and establish a continuous movement with preparation crossings impossible. Have to organize intermediate stops for transplantation or perestezhki, provide additional coverage for the patient and attendants. In this case it is advisable to use the ice topography in the icefall and insurance with short rails, which are tied to the victim.
When transported through the ice falls seriously injured, requiring constant medical care, it is sometimes useful for facilitating and accelerating the dentists have a special group for boiling autoclave, syringes, sterile packing if all have been used. The group is moving forward in 10-15 minutes from the main unit. This is particularly important in many hours of transport through large ice falls.
When reciprocation steep ice slopes to take precautions against defeat vytayavshimi falling stones. We must try not to cross the ice couloir, organize surveillance on horseback, move fast, to provide reliable coverage is best in the form of fixed ropes attached to the hooks. In places overcome ice walls with up or down to adjust the casualty should advance insurance, possible relocation "pendulum".