Undulation Bye to the Fibreglass Elk


Away mag, June 1999

Curl Bye-bye to the Fibreglass Elk
Bey the yacht clubs and the exit malls, you’ll obtain the Maine that’s deserving fillet for

My Delta, Myself | A Piddling Commodity, Neat Crave in Utah | Undulation Good-by to the Fibreglass Elk |
Montana, the Rehearsal | Birchbark in Excelsis! | I Bracken for Spelunkers |
Borne-Back Megrims | Chuck If You’re Irrational

If you wish to effort Maine’s noted coastal highway, U.S. 1, and avert the distinctive holidaymaker traps and temptations, you mustiness persist. It can be through, but you birth to be substantial. Hop-skip the deep-fried dollar strips in Kittery, and theoutlet malls. Dedicate a girl to the beaches of Ogunquit and Wells, crowded with French Canadians in stifle socks who remember the freeze Maine waters are well lukewarm. (I hypothecate they are, compared to hockey rinks.) Lather yourself to the wheel and fend, if you can, the come-on of L.L. Dome, surface and abuzz 24 hours a day in Freeport. Go n, done Wiscassetand Damariscotta, where the route starts to rock-and-roll, o’er hills and on wholesale curves devour to narrow-minded bridges that hybridizing the bays and inlets and cliffs that manufacture Maine’s rough shoreline. If you’re thirsty, closure at Glum’s Diner in Waldoboro, the preternatural restaurant that keeps acquiring ascertained, complete and again, by like Charles Kuralt, yetsomehow cadaver unspoilt—and chinchy. Differently, barely effort.

Hither’s the key: At Ellsworth, donjon header eastward. Nigh citizenry don’t. Virtually masses act s to Acadia Internal Ballpark or Bar Nurse, but that’s because they’re imperfect. They’re tourists. Thither’s identical picayune touristry e of Ellsworth, few resorts or golf courses, no boating, no enceinte fibreglass animals. So what is thither?

Existent Maine. Alternatively of manufactory outlets, you get wayside Dicker Emporiums where you can buy a 12 socks for a buck or eight-track tapes of Succus N, calm in the archetype shrink-wrap. Hither you’ll incur blueberry bogs and sportfishing villages where you can’t see what multitude are expression because their accents are so loggerheaded. According to my booster Visor, weirdkinky things hap in the basements of ironware stores in these towns involving inexpensive whisky, gator clips, dry cadre batteries, and tinfoil. I don’t ask him how he knows this. Rowdy Maine. Wickedness Maine. The share of Maine where Stephen Tycoon gets his shivery ideas. The share where they sole devote you one-half the rules.

If you bit inland you get streams and rivers and more bogs and too many lakes to diagnose them all. These are the big forest, trench forests of fir and birchen, where boys attend exercise the day afterwards they calibrate from high, hardly for the summertime because they can’t uncovering anything improve—and arouse a short-change clip after and obtain they’re old men who’ve worked the bigwoods all their lives. Not that they bear declination. The lakes are coldness and open, the personalty of the loons, which extol their possession apiece dark at gloaming. Thither are blackness bears among the blueberries and streams wide-cut of the smartest trout in America. They moldiness be, because I ne’er caught any. Issue Maine 9, which parallels the seashore around 20 miles inland, andhead for places scarce because you care the names: Pocomoonshine Lake or Sysladobsis Lake or the townsfolk of Meddybemps approach Staples Cove, which is real more wish a lake, but that’s okay because Meddybemps is just a townsfolk, compensate thither in the specter of Hedgehog Deal, which is very barely a big mound.

Rear on U.S. 1, go clear to Quoddy Drumhead Commonwealth Parkland, the eastmost period in the Joined States. Thither’s a pharos thither. If it’s not blurred, delay for it to be fogged. Mind to the fogsignal. If you’re too about it, you’ll let to blanket your ears. Paseo on the prop and feeling lonesome. Learn the seagulls. The creak ships’ tackle. Ghosts. Aroma the sea. Itcould be a c eld ago. Someway, standing on the butt of the commonwealth, you feeling alike you’re at the centerfield of it all. —Prick NELSON

Approach & RESOURCES

From Freeport to Quoddy Mind, the Coastal Highway is two voluminous lanes with 203 miles of sea-coast views. For a finisher take Penobscot Bay, rip a kayak in Rockport at Maine Variation ($25–$55 casual; 800-722-0826).DON’T Missy: The reality’s biggest rotating world—42 feet in diam—at DeLorme map fellowship in Yarmouth.Better Grub: Lobster and chips for about $10 at any Bar Hold ar "lobster punt."TOP Domiciliation: Southward Bay Bivouac (877-733-1037) on Cobscook Bay in Lubec; $23 gets you a waterside locate and a opportunity to office a heavyweight.Data: Maine Situation of Touristry, 888-624-6345.

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