«And if you do not shot and not get caught?» — He asked me, buddy. «So what? I am personally going for fog. And the smell of the taiga. And there, as will! «I hardly played a cunning trick, although the famous Karelian hunting and fishing Of course, I also like. But I do not believe that came out of the tent in the morning and yawning can get breakfast heels grouse, and moving away from the camp at a hundred paces, remove from eating handsome Moshnikov. Yes, and I do not like to «easily …». And most importantly, what can be better than your dreams come true! ..
The photo — Boris Sokolov
View the video version of the eponymous essay about traveling outside the cars, Russian landscapes, about male friendship, dream come true, and most importantly — that it is impossible not to fall in love with Karelia, and the like, and it is impossible to fall out of love and not return to it…You can link: "Test dream — video version"
Karelia met our amazing weather. Sunny days with the ringing of the blue sky and the full calm alternated with cold wind and gray clouds, but a couple of times sifted from the sky Vodicka could not be called the rain and did not create any discomfort.
Hunters Muezersky proved solid and decent man. He openly wondered:
— Guys, what you forgot to Ungozere ?! It is crowded, there is a network of dirt roads. And the forest was cut down there a long time, only twenty years as the secondary housing rose. We drove you better at Leksozero… Well, if the itch… here and here polazte, all you need to find!
And he was right, and in terms of population size of these places, and in the sense of the landscape, and the issue of the availability of game and fish — we found the capercaillie, black grouse, grouse, ducks, pike perch with, only to take all this splendor, unfortunately, time has not come…
The fee for access to the OPS (fee) — 400 rub., The payment for waterfowl — 400 rub .; licensed game: capercaillie — 100 rub., The black grouse — 20 rubles.
Deciding not to use other people’s parking, we found at the lake Talkuna-Shelga untouched place and the remainder of the day was used for equipment comfortable camp. The whole area was completely covered with a thick layer of moss and lush placers cranberries and blueberries. And forests were hordes of aspen mushrooms and porcini mushrooms. After the rain held earlier between the moss and formed a solid ground slippery plenochka humus, and walk on the «layer-cake» it was extremely difficult — moss torn to shreds.
— As you walk on feces! — cynically summed Konstantinych balancing with a chainsaw around a dead pine tree…
…No matter how desirable this morning, after three days of road, sleep late, we got up at five o’clock — forest and lake beckoned with irresistible force. I left the tent, stretched, and… in the grayness of dawn over the edge of the shore with the familiar whistle of wings ear last six diving ducks, and somewhere near the opposite bank of the geese cackled. Well, good morning, Karelia!
Volodya Ilya remained cut firewood, gather motorboat, prepare dinner and explore the lake with sonar and Earring we first entered the Karelian forest has as a hunter, literally absorbing its sounds and smells …
However, the nature of the forest did not give much hope. Where densely where spacious growing young pine trees with little understory could not serve as a safe haven upland game, however, food supply is great, and we went through a pinewood to the nearest lake in deep forest. And suddenly he slammed a shot from behind!
It turned out, Vladimir, accompanied us and sipping some coffee, walked away from the camp about fifty meters, whistled in a decoy and then got the company of two grouse, one of them took it. And it was the first and last game, extracted with such ease. For each additional bird we paid kilometers of hiking raids, and for every pike perch and a dozen liters of 95 octane.
Inspection lakes showed that the ducks are not in sight. The water was dark, not disturbed by any movement of living beings. As it turned out, the duck prefers to live in the bays of larger lakes, where they had not risen.
In the photo — Sergey Malyshev
Then we went to the edge of a huge stunningly beautiful marsh. We have captured the spirit of this disturbing beauty — marsh landscapes are always fascinating. They combine these feelings of detachment from the world, refined harmony and lurking danger. We enjoyed solid overeat, exploding in the mouth tart aroma of cranberries, and suddenly sat Serge:
— I see a bird! Large, black… Look, first, he’s there!
Right on the middle of the swamp, which could see the open water, sat grouse! We wanted to count them, and we went to sneak him in quicksand cranberry from Pine to Pine. But keen Blackies went and sat on the branches of the trees on the other side of the swamp. Well, okay, we have completed one task — grouse found, but the good of it…
A couple of days we Konstantinych looking for grouse avoided the familiar places and have heard loud tokovanie grouse. To determine the direction, I realized that these are the same, bog and invited Volodya to look at them. Tetereva rose again and went to the other side of their possessions.
— Some Chernyshov, — Volodya said. — A female probably sitting there among the bumps and do not stand on the wing.
— There’s a swamp, Volodya, why they bother ?! We had semolina grouse with him to take, and stuffed animals, even tried to lure to the edge of the swamp.
— Who knew that they sit through the swamps here, like ducks! I think that with the approach we will take to rise, but on the edges of the old cuttings…
So, on the first day. After some time, we are right on course vysvisteli grouse that flew silently towards us through the thicket literally «posthaste», and then… Nine lifts grouse — this is very serious, but no one here forest, can not it dog work for capercaillie, since he does not sit on the high tree, where there is almost no, do not give the dog itself bark and hunter conceal, and just immediately go bottom, thicket . We were left without a classic upland hunting capercaillie with husky …
SOUP «Karelian» .Ryabchikov cleans, eviscerated (can be soaked in water for 40 minutes). Cut in half, put in a cauldron with water and cook with onions, carrots for about an hour, not forgetting to remove the foam. Fry in vegetable oil chopped onions and white mushrooms (aspen, boletus, butter mushrooms). Laying the mushroom filling in salted broth with grouse, here is potatoes (or noodles), pepper, bay leaf, garlic, herbs and cook for another 15-20 min.Foto author
Halt lunch we had on the bank Tervaozera on an old fishing parking with heaps of garbage and burnt down the hut. All fishing in the lakes parking scary filthy. Rubbish, it seems, will not take away, do not burn or bury all. It hurts to look at the mountain of bottles, cans and bags floating off the coast.
After a quick dinner, taking advantage of the convenience of the existing shelter with tables and benches, we hurried away into the forest. Tervaozero walked and went an entirely different landscape. North-western shore of the lake — This steep hills and Glens with abundant scattering of stones and fragments of rocks and almost completely sawn woods.
It is only the rare pines, in the times of the former logging areas «whips»And therefore untouched, but still the same «Resale». We need a few more decades to re-grown forests turned into the forest and filled with game. But already back home, we have seen from the road «A-134» M-18 left timber loaded with thin short stems.
— Well! — Serge said sadly, — already «the secondary» demolished to them! ..
Ilya camp said that sonar indicates sea fish, but it almost does not react to any tackle.
— Throws, and then come to verify whether the fish did not go, — they explained. — Fish is. Water lot today, and it is warm. Unless dropped to ten degrees, the fish do not wait.
… Fish soup with pure, refined taste is not transferable, in Karelia, we have not eaten! More would not it be so when the fish living in the crystal clear waters, and the water is so soft, that we need a water dispenser to wash the lather away with! Photo by the author
…Apart from rare pickerels, at the very least gives us an ear, let perch caught on a worm, there was only eternal magic wand hunters Lesovik — grouse. The dream of hunting and fishing in Karelia turned into a test of endurance running, and most importantly, perseverance and loyalty to this dream.
…The Central Karelia for successful hunting and fishing need to go no earlier than mid-September, and not less than three weeks. Otherwise, there is a feeling some understatement.
On the fifth day we were sitting at the table with Volodya with mugs cranberry Morse, who cooked for ten days and drank five desyatilitrovyh buckets, and desperately bored. High above the camp held a flock of swans.
— Oh, yes! — said grimly Konstantinych — «a long time will be Karelia dreams»!
— Volodya, send me tomorrow on a business trip!
— At Circo-Kem. There is a river near the forest exactly nerublennye, age.
— Go with Sergey! — He perked up. — But it makes no sense to spend the night there, Ilyukha better let you drive grader to throw in the evening meet…
Moving away from the grader a few hundred meters, we were in a real fairy tale. Mysterious nisin affluent brook and dense spruce forest down to the marsh, are very similar to ours, grouse. That’s what we dreamed of the forest! We passed through the swamp and come out in the world mutilated man. Huge forestry, mangled wheels «supertehnikoy», Covered what was once the Karelian taiga, the terrible scars. Only the red-blue waves of cranberries and blueberries around stumps and boulders. In recent track moose tracks.
In the central part of Karelia for successful hunting and fishing need to go no earlier than mid-September, and not less than three weeks.
We hurried to cross the «stalkerskoy» zone and entered into a series of hills and Glens forming the right side of the huge hollow in which the river Chirko-Kem on sixteen kilometers turns into a huge Tahkolambiny — Upper and Lower (Tahkolambiny — that somewhere between the lake and the wide river. The currents virtually no possibility of a strong wind and waves).
The terrain leads us into raptures. We were ready to climb endlessly on these wooded slopes strewn with boulders, climb over the rubble forest, down in the wet, gloomy Glens, each of which gurgled clear streams.
…Dalai Lama was once asked what his most amazing. He replied: «Human. Initially, he sacrifices his health in order to earn money. Then he spends the money to restore their health. At the same time he is so worried about his future that he never enjoyed the present. As a result, he does not live any present or future. He lives as if they will never die, and dying, regretted that not live».
Here we live in is real, absorbing the smell of bonfires, clean waters and the sound of the taiga, the morning mist and the panorama of hills, the excitement of the hunt and the starry sky, the taste of venison and fish soup, cozy tents and atmosphere evening conversations…
Finally, he opened view of the Circo-Kem, and on the slope of a hill in my backpack lay down for the first date grouse. We had lunch on the rocks near the shore and went to have long wave of rumors noise thresholds. We climbed on a rock, and — here it is, in the famous tourist environment threshold Tahko-Padun!
Forgetting about the hunt, we enthusiastically climbed on rocks, staring in fascination at the swirling water, and found the tourist trail, went over a bunch of three thresholds — Howdy, curves and Tahko. Just seeing the traces of old squirrel feedings, I remembered the guns, decoys and returned to the camp, and footage presented grouse videofotomaterial. Volodya’s eyes lit up when he saw on the screen notebook panorama rapids. At his request the next day, we again stood over the threshold, he suddenly said:
— You can not earn anything at all, no game or fish. Worth to come here just to see this beauty and then say: «And I’m out there was! ..»
He became thoughtful, businesslike appreciated coastal rocks as bridges and mooring for boats, and then stepped into a clearing among pine trees.
— This is where you will put the camp! — I heard his voice. — Only compose differently based on topography.
I could not believe my ears: «It is necessary»?! «Will be»?! So he, too, has passed the test of bad fishing and hunting, and realized that all of this is nothing more than «better luck next time».
— Go to the doorstep! — I said. — We forgot something to do …
And again we have risen on a cliff above the Tahko-Padun. I scooped a handful of coins from his pocket and divided it in two.
— On, I’m quitting! We’ll be back.
— You think?
— I am sure!
Boris Sokolov20 October 2013 at 00:00