In addition to obtaining fire by spark cutting, there are many ways to obtain fire by friction. A huge number of methods for producing fire by friction can be divided into several types: production of fire by drilling, production of fire by curettage, production of fire by sawing, production of fire by skating, production of fire by compressing air (fire piston).
Methods for producing fire by friction, producing fire by drilling, scraping, sawing, skating, compressing air, fire piston.
To produce fire by drilling it is necessary to have a dry twig acting as a drill and a plank acting as a substrate. A small indentation is made in the board, for example with a knife blade, and the drill is ground under a cone, like a pencil. A sharpened drill is inserted into the hole of the substrate and begin to rotate it, while pressing on it, as if you really want to drill the substrate. The production of fire by drilling from drilling holes differs in that the drill must be made of as soft material as possible, compared with the substrate.
To increase friction, you can put a few grains of sand in the recess, but do not get carried away with it, otherwise you will drill the drill too deep into the substrate and it will become stuck. A piece of chunk can be placed next to the hole, but it should be noted that during drilling, the finest charred wood dust is released and it smolders no worse than a tinder. You can rotate the drill by holding it between the palms and moving them back and forth, while simultaneously exerting pressure down on the substrate. You can significantly simplify the process with a rope drill.
To do this, make one rope (rope) around the drill with a rope, stretch the ends of the rope in different directions and alternately pull them one way or the other, while simultaneously pressing on top of the drill with a piece of hard and slippery material (stone, bone, etc.). d.) with a recess in the middle, the recess can be greased with oil, grease, and in their absence soapy or plain water. This method of drilling requires two people. True, the Chukchi managed to press on the drill bit with a piece of bone clamped in their teeth, then both hands were released to work with the cord.
You can free the second hand and significantly simplify the process by using an archer drill. It differs from lace in that both ends of the lace entwined around the drill pull together the ends of a bent onion stick. The tension of the lace is carried out by the bow, it must be moved with one hand, the second is released and can put pressure on top of the drill.
etc). Having cleaned the support from the bark, drill a hole in it 1-1.5 cm deep in it and lay a tinder around….
…To do this, you need to choose a dry, easily flammable bar about 12 mm thick, a dry rod (drill) pointed at one end 25-30 cm long and 2-2.5 cm thick, a rope 45-50 cm long and about 12 mm thick, a stretch for tension ropes like a bow, as well as a small piece of wood (handle) with a recess for the convenience of rotating the drill and holding it with the palm of the hand in an upright position.
A pump drill may be even more effective than an archery drill. For its manufacture, a massive disk (flywheel) is put on the drill, its lower part, two short (of the same length) shoelaces are attached to the upper part of the drill. A horizontal stick is attached to the free ends of the laces, the length of the laces should not be enough for the stick to reach the flywheel.
The stick may contain in the middle a hole into which the drill passes. Rotating the stick, twist the laces around the drill, and resting the drill on the substrate, press the stick down, the drill unwinds and twists the laces the other way. The next time it is pressed, it rotates in the other direction, and so on, until a fire is received. A good pump drill can provide fire within minutes.
Fire by friction of a tree against a tree can be obtained by curettage. As with drilling, you need a dry bar made of softwood, and a substrate (log, block) made of hardwood. A small groove is made in the bar, ending dullly. A pointed bar is inserted with a point into the groove at an angle of 30-35 degrees. This bar is taken by hands and with force (body) move back and forth. Sawdust accumulates at the end of the groove, which begins to smolder.
Getting fire by friction by sawing in the classic version requires the use of bamboo. To do this, take a thick and very solid trunk of green bamboo. Then a piece of bamboo is split lengthwise into two halves and the core is scraped out. A notch is made across one half, a half is put down on the ground with a notch and an removed core is folded under the notch, in addition to the core, you can put a brown fluff covering the bee palm and dry material that can be found at the base of the coconut leaf.
From the second half they do something like a knife and they start to saw them, sawdust begins to smolder. Instead of a bamboo trunk, you can use solid wood, the shell of a coconut flower and other solid wood material that repeats the shape of bamboo. It is possible to saw with a bamboo knife not a split bamboo knee along, filling the knee with smoldering material and making a hole in the side for fanning the fire.
Sawing fire is possible in another way. For this, it is necessary to prepare five bamboo slats 40-50 cm long and 5-8 cm wide. The slats are made of dry yellow bamboo, their sharp edges are blunt with a knife. One bar serves as a rod, sharpening it with a knife, stick into the ground to half the length. Four other planks are folded in pairs, with the convex side outward, placing a dry tinder between each pair of planks. Then make transverse notches on the planks and along them, firmly pressing the planks to the rod, move them up and down until the tinder fades.
There are methods of making fire by sawing with a flexible saw (belt, wire, etc.). According to the classics, they use a thick strip of dry rattan (palm tree) about 2.5-10 cm thick and two meters long. It is necessary to cut a piece of wood from one end and insert a wedge between the halves so that it remains in a split state. Then insert a small piece of tinder into the splitting and grab (press) with a belt, which must be moved back and forth until the tinder is smoldering, the piece of wood at this time must be pressed to the ground with your feet. Instead of a belt, you can take a wire, it will quickly heat up to the ignition temperature of tinder, smokeless powder, celluloid, cotton, etc..
The original is a method of breeding fire by friction between fibers in cellulose-fiber materials. To do this, it is necessary to roll a very dense roller with a diameter of 8-10 mm from the cotton wool, place it between two planks, and clicking on them, quickly roll for several minutes. When the roller heats up, it must be immediately torn in half, inside it will smolder and it can be inflated until a flame appears. A similar method is known from the practice of some primitive tribes..
According to him, they took a knee of bamboo and split it along, getting something like a trough, the knee was fixed on the ground with two pegs. In addition, a strap was made of bamboo with a length of 10-15 cm and a width of 4-6 cm. A transverse groove was made in the middle of the strap, in the center of which a hole was drilled with a diameter of a pin head. Two small balls were made of bamboo chips and placed inside the bamboo knee, these balls were covered with a bar on top and it moved back and forth, the fire was fanned through the hole in the bar.
Extraction of fire by air compression (fire piston).
The fire piston consists of a hollow cylinder closed at one end and a piston with a recess for the tinder. A tinder is put in the recess of the piston, the piston is inserted into the cylinder, and several sharp reciprocating movements are made. Tinder ignites from heated air.