People all over the world are constantly looking for new ways to improve their way of life without causing their environment to suffer in the process. While the style and being at the forefront of the latest trends was the most important aspect, nowadays it is about becoming ecological.
One of the most recent steps, with regard to ecological heating, is the mass heater with rocket stove. Not only do they provide your home with wonderful warmth, they can also heat your home at a fraction of the cost and without leaving that harmful carbon footprint. The best part is that you can build one yourself, and this is an amazing way to help keep your home off the grid and self-sufficient.
What is a rocket mass heater?
A rocket mass heater is a space heating system that works using the same main concepts as the rocket stove and the masonry heater. It works using an isolated combustion chamber. Here, the fuel is burned at high temperatures, as well as high efficiency.
Thermal gases are not released immediately into the air. First they must make their way through the system, and this means they will heat the thermal accumulator. This thermal store can be built to act as a source of heat and as part of the characteristics of the room.
In other words, you can make the seating areas leave the thermal tent, so you have heated seats that keep you and your home warm. This means that the space used for this heating system is automatically recovered, giving it a good use. Of course, it is always good to make sure that you plan the design correctly according to the size and dimensions of the room.
Complications of construction
When learning to build a rocket mass heater, it is important that you prepare for the entire project. This is by no means the kind of project that should be taken lightly. You need careful consideration and planning to avoid any problems. Having said that, unlike many other sources of heat, your rocket mass heater will be relatively free of problems.
It is essential that you be realistic about the construction of this heater, because, unlike appliances, generally require the DIY approach. If you are not willing to get your hands dirty, then assuming this type of project might not be for you. Of course, if you have some helpful helpers who do not mind doing the construction and installation, then go ahead!
Careful construction is required to reduce any risk of fireplace fires and other accidents in the future. On the issue of chimneys, it is important to keep in mind that some modifications may be necessary for rocket mass heaters. The output of the heater is much colder than that of these systems than normal fires, so they may need a little more help. Horizontal vents may not be adequate at all due to building codes. In fact, it is always important to check local laws before beginning any type of construction.
Benefits of rocket mass heaters.
There are a number of great benefits for this type of heater.
Being aware of these benefits will help you understand what makes this the best option for your home:
- A large amount of heat production to keep you warm even in the coldest months.
- Easy to use.
- Low amount of pollution that is always an advantage for the environment.
- Aesthetically pleasing designs make it a feature rather than a monstrosity.
- Financially attractive option since it costs less to heat your home.
- Low maintenance means less that you have a heat source that you can rely on.
- Use small pieces of wood that can be found in your own garden.
- No need to cut and split wood. This is particularly beneficial during the coldest weeks of the year when you want to keep your workload to a minimum.
- Easy to clean, which means less work and more time to enjoy your home.
Building a rocket mass heater is a highly rewarding project that you can afford to pay yourself for years to come. It is not just about your wallet, but also about the other great benefits mentioned above.
That said, an understanding of the possible disadvantages is also essential, as this will help prevent you from making mistakes or judgments.
Some of the potential disadvantages include:
- The need for a more frequent trend since small pieces of wood are needed.
- The need to install together with a thermal mass if you want to enjoy maximum efficiency. When heating a larger surface, these areas will heat the surrounding air.
- You will have to use small pieces of wood and branches. You can not use large pieces of wood.
- It is known that condensation is formed along the exhaust line due to temperature differences.
- To prevent heat or emissions from escaping, the exhaust line must be airtight.
- You should also install several cleanings along the exhaust line. This will guarantee easy access when you need to perform a regular cleaning.
- The steel sections will need to be replaced from time to time. Like any metal component, regular exposure to heat will cause wear.
- If you catch fire from time to time, it will cause the steel to wear even faster.
What do you need
- 4 sheets of 26-gauge metal (sizes: 41 and n ° 8243; x 36 and n ° 8243; 20 and n ° 8243; x 89 and n ° 8243; 16 and n ° 8243; x 109 y No. 8243; 48 and No. 8243; x 18 and No. 8243;)
- 4 sheets of 16 gauge metal (sizes: 34 and # 8243; x 34 and # 8243;, 33.5 and # 8243; x 43 and # 8243;, 32 and # 8243; x 40 and # 8243;, 31 and # 8243 ; x 14and # 8243;)
- 1 and # 8243; square tube (20 feet)
- 6y # 8243; Well casing pipe (1/4 and # 8243; thick)
- Stove and elbow
- Sheet metal screws (? Y # 8221;)
- Fire Bricks
- Regular bricks or CEB
- High temperature silicone
- High temperature painting
- Measuring tape
- Tin trimmings
- Saw (masonry and metal blades)
- Punch out
- Welding equipment
Building the base
- Use a 26 gauge metal sheet for the base. It must be 1 “larger on all sides than it really needs to be, this will allow rounding in. In this example, sheet 48 and # 215; 20 is for the base.
- Use your marker to make a 1 “line around the edge.
- Cut each corner to the 1 “mark with canned cuts.The curved areas need additional cuts to avoid metal bubbling.
- Use the pliers to fold the flap 1 “upwards, making sure that all are bent at right angles.
- Cut the flap or fold it under the base where your ash box will go.
- Place your base and hang a plumb line from the middle to where the stove points, mark the metal. Using this mark as the center point, draw a circle around it. The circle must have the same diameter as the stovepipe.
Now is the time to build the walls.
Using the square tube, you can build a sturdy frame by following the instructions below:
- Each of the 2 uprights to the left must be 15 “tall and connected to each other by a 16” metal piece. All metal parts must be welded in place.
- A horizontal piece of pipe will run from the rear studs.
- Mark 13 “from the left edge of this horizontal pipe and weld another vertical piece (19” high) just to the right of the mark.
- Cut a 28 “long horizontal piece to weld between the left and right front studs.
- Cut and weld the tubes between the two right studs.
- Cut two vertical tubes 7.5 “high and one horizontal piece 8.5” wide. Solder the horizontal piece to the studs and place it inside the base to match the corners of the ashtray opening.
First layer metal
Use another piece of 26 gauge metal for the top and, again, need 1 “more around the edges.In this particular plan, sheet 16 and # 215; 109 is the perfect size.
- Fasten the metal at the points where two straight metal edges meet.
- Use your hammer to bend the 1 “portion at a right angle.
- Screw the metal when folding it and follow the same shape as the base. Screw the metal into the tip of each vertical position. Now screw the sheet metal base around everything. They must be separated 4 “.
- Place the ashtray frame in its place inside the unit and screw the metal sheet. Use screws around the hole.
- Use high temperature silicone to seal the base and seams.
Second layer metal
Use a piece of sheet metal 20 “wide by 89” high and hold one end between two pieces of the taller square pipe studs. Leave 1 “hanging over the edge and hammer it at a right angle. Place the flap 1 “to the left, with the back facing upright. Allow the rest of the metal to run down the back. Screw the metal back piece but do not flap it.
Screw the metal following the main shape of the first metal layer. Just do not take it back to the first vertical position. Let the tail be loose for now. Screw the two layers of sheet metal and paint the outside with temperature resistant paint.
Position the unit and make sure it is aligned with the hole or tube of the existing stove.
Connect your stovepipe to reach the exit hole in the wall from inside the unit. At the bottom, you must add an elbow pointing to the left. Cut a sheet of 26 gauge metal (41 “x36” high); You can extend it to the top of the stove pipe if you want to hide it. However, leaving some parts exposed is better for rapid heating purposes.
Paint the outside of the metal with temperature resistant paint and wrap it around the stove. Connect it with an overlap of 1 “.
The box of ashes
The dimensions of this design are 6 “wide, 14” deep and 7 “high, use 16 gauge metal and cut three pieces: one 14” x 6 “and two 6” x 7 “. soldering the pieces together and add a handle to the front.
Once everything has cooled, apply temperature resistant paint and place the box in place inside the opening.
Cut 16 gauge metal to a size of 7 “x 7” and mark a grid on this piece of metal (vertical and horizontal lines). Drill a hole at each intersection (1/4 “holes)
Stacking the bricks helps create a path for the smoke to travel, which means that it must be strategic in its planning. Special heat resistant bricks should be used if they come into direct contact with heat, but for those located at higher levels, you can use regular bricks.
- Stack the bricks around the elbow and over them. Make sure they are safe and that they do not move.
- Pour some sand in the back corner, behind the bricks and around the stove.
- Leave a space of 6 “between the elbow of the stove and then start stacking your bricks at a height of 8”. Leave about 1/4 “between the bricks and your ashtray. This will allow the ashtray to slide in and out easily.
- Stack the bricks around the ashtray and leave 1/4 “on all sides and fill around the bricks with sand.
- Place the grill over the 8 “high bricks, place it in the center of the cooker area (top left of the unit, over the ashtray).
- Make a box on top of this level, from the right of this grill to the bricks that are 6 “from the stovepipe.
- Be sure to build a roof (using bricks to join the front and rear walls). It must be 7 “tall, including the roof, but it must not reach the first level of the sheet metal. You need to leave room for a brick finishing layer.
- Fill the areas behind the bricks with sand.
Elevator of heat
This is one of the most important parts of all. This length of pipe must be properly insulated to increase the speed at which the heat will increase.
Start using a 6 “casting pipe for the interior (it is approximately 1/4” thick and 32 “long). Place the pipe on the top of the brick roof, mark the bricks where this pipe will go and then cut the inside of the circle with your saw and the masonry blade, cut inside the mark so that the hole is smaller than the tube.
Next, cut a piece of 16 gauge 32 “x40” metal and fold it evenly to form a 32 “tall tube, screw the metal to secure the tube shape and place it around the 6” tube. Fill the area between the two tubes with pearlite and place it carefully as you go.
Next, you will need another barrel wider and taller than the one holding the perlite. This will allow the smoke to rise and fall to the stove. Cut another piece of 16 gauge metal (33.5 “x 42”) and bend it to form a tube with a 1 “overlap.Screw one side to the other to secure the tube in place Cut a lid for the barrel and weld it Instead, once it has cooled, paint it with high temperature paint and remember that this part will remain exposed without sand around it, it is very hot, so you should use thick metal.
Place this barrel on the perlite barrel and make sure the right edge extends over the bricks and allows air to flow into the stovepipe.
Protect this passage by piling bricks between the stovepipe and the barrel. Fill with sand. Fold the loose metal flap (from the second layer of the metal section) around the back and secure it to the vertical position with screws.
Use sand to fill this level and the barrel of the stove. Fill both to the top and let it stand for about a week so that the sand can settle. Fill the remaining space at the top with washed stones. This is excellent for aesthetic appeal, as well as to prevent sand from producing dust.
Finishing and testing.
Add your final layer of bricks to the top of the firebox. Measure them and cut them for a perfect fit. When you are happy, it is time to perform a functional test: place paper and twigs in the box and let them rest on the grill. Turn on dry materials and, once they burn, you can add more. Use small pieces of wood and avoid larger pieces that could clog and suffocate the fire.
Flames and smoke should not appear because the shot created by the heat elevator helps to pull the fire in a horizontal direction. If you notice smoke rising, push the burning materials a little more. You may only need to allow the system to warm a little more before an air stream strong enough to draw out all the smoke is generated. That said, you should only experience a small amount of smoke when entering the early stages of burning. If you get a lot of smoke, you may have to examine the system for a problem.
In comparison with conventional methods.
When you compare this method of home heating with other options such as your conventional wood stove, it is easy to detect the differences. A wood stove is designed in such a way that the heat produced by the combustion process is lost. This is because the smoke and heat open up and out of the chimney. The hot air increases, which means that the heat will not stay as long as you want. This means that you need to use more wood to reach the desired temperature.
The mass heater of the rocket stove, on the other hand, conserves energy by forcing emissions along a longer and more specific path. This means that the heat will take longer to escape and, as a result, the exhaust and the surrounding areas will be in contact with the hot air for longer. This means you will need to use much less wood, and there are also cooler emissions when using this heating unit.
Build, light, and enjoy!
Once you have finished building your own heating system, it is time to try it. In fact, it is always advisable to perform a test before making any final touch. Be sure to test the leaks and seal the system completely before you feel comfortable and enjoy the wonderful heat!
Keep in mind that there are a number of fabulous designs to choose from. It’s not just about making your home warm and attractive, it also offers you a place to warm up quickly each time you enter your home. If you have ever felt the desperate need to thaw or simply enjoy reading a book in a warm and welcoming place, this is the perfect solution!