Cleaning weapons in the field

We all periodically do the cleaning in the house where we live, not to mention personal hygiene. A weapon that can save lives in an extreme situation should also have its own hygiene. Or it can NOT be done if the weapon is a careless owner. Timely cleaning of the weapon will ensure its proper, long and reliable operation. In the article we will look at the basic things that you need to know in order to keep your weapons clean and tidy.

The barrel bore, the chamber and the breech breech work in contact with the corrosive chemical environment of blasting and powder gases. At enormous pressures (about 700 atm. And higher), hot gases penetrate into the pores of the metal and cause its deep corrosion.

The most destructive effect of gases from the combustion of capsule composition. Powder and capsule carbon dioxide has an acid reaction and is much better dissolved in water than in oil. Old, forgotten and very effective means for cleaning weapons – soapy water, own saliva and water solution of ash from the fire. They have a fairly strong alkaline reaction, sufficient to neutralize the acidity of powder and powder soot. A brush screwed on a ramrod (or a rag wound on a wipe), moistened abundantly with saliva, soapy water, wet ash from a fire, clean the barrel, breech block and all parts that are hot from the shot, and leave in that position for 10-15, this will be quite enough for the chemical neutralization of soot, even in the pores of the metal (of course, this can not be done at a minus temperature).

Then the weapon is wiped dry with a cloth and smeared with a thin layer of lubricant. In winter, autumn and spring, the weapon must be lubricated for the reason that snowflakes, water droplets and liquid dirt adhere to the non-lubricated surface of the metal and freeze it. In the winter, the pistol (revolver) is lubricated only with liquid oil (ordinary household oil, artillery spindle) and only with a very thin layer. Why is that? Because in the cold oil thickens, sometimes so that the trigger is not able to break the primer.

In the summer, on the contrary, the weapon must be completely dry. Why? Because dust and sand have a nasty habit of sticking to a greased metal surface. When carrying a pistol in a holster or just in your pocket in the cavities of the weapon and in the barrel bore dust accumulates, which is taken from nowhere. When fired, the bullet pulls dust particles behind it, which act like sandpaper, rubbing the barrel. Motorists are well aware that one gram of dust carries one gram of metal out of an engine. The same thing happens with weapons. Therefore, even if you do not shoot, periodically disassemble the gun and carefully wipe all its cavities and the bore.

It is better to clean the barrel bore with a soft brass ramrod and always from the breech breech. If you clean the barrel from the side of the muzzle, then with a ramrod, the battle edges and rifling fields are imperceptibly but surely erased, the barrel acquires a socket in the muzzle, and the range of bullets increases when firing. This process is noticeable even on weapons with a chrome barrel.

Out of respect for the weapon and for a significant extension of its service life, the gun must be cleaned as often as possible – even after one, single shot. The combustion products of the capsule and gunpowder destructively act on the inner surface of the barrel bore, causing its increased wear and deteriorating the accuracy of the fight. Do not forget to clean and lubricate the breech of the gate – the harmful combustion products of the capsule, penetrating the shot between the walls of the capsule and the sleeve, slowly but surely eat the ring around the orifice exit hole. Over time, this ring turns into a recess, and the weapon deteriorates hopelessly.

In combat conditions, if possible, with an incomplete disassembly of the weapon (remove the pistol bolt or remove the revolver drum), somehow wipe the barrel bore, barrel of the drum and the breech breech with oil with rags, and then wipe these parts dry. With this, you simply will not allow the weapon to rust. Do this as often as possible and just inspect the gun. Rust stains should be wiped with an oil rag.

Complete disassembly (to screw) produce when the gun fell into the mud, snow, water, sand. If necessary, replace the old lubricant and after a long shooting in combat or training conditions.

With a strong rust, the weapon is cleaned with kerosene. Kerosene, possessing increased fluidity, penetrates into the surface pores of the metal. In addition, kerosene has a strong alkaline reaction and therefore easily “eats away” any rust, dirt, and powder and powder soak. Of course, from time to time the weapon must again be sorted out and cleaned. After a major cleaning in a week, wipe the bore with a clean rag, and you will see how much nagara has “flowed” from the walls of the barrel. Therefore, the barrel bore and must be lubricated with a thin layer of oil so that the soot would have a place to “sweat”. The process of the release of carbon from the pores of the metal to the outside can take several weeks. Therefore, in the army, which was called the Soviet, it was customary to clean the weapon daily.

Gun stores have excellent German weapon care products. That is how this tool is called – Ballistol.

Revolvers, a revolver, TT pistols and all weapons of pre-war release require special care. The barrels of such weapons are not chromed and are subject to increased corrosion.

For the conservation of weapons during long-term storage using only gun oil. Liquid machine oils dry quickly, thick (grease) form a film, under which the metal is not protected by anything. Moreover, under such a dried lubricant, moisture is stretched, causing the appearance of rust.

Do not use vegetable oils under any circumstances! They thicken so much that the moving parts stick to each other and stop moving.

In a calm fighting environment, the gun is worn lightly oiled inside and out with a thin layer of neutral oil. Neutral oil does not smell – this is its difference from alkaline and weakly alkaline oils, which smell of kerosene. Alkaline and weakly alkaline oils are used for the initial cleaning of weapons from soot. It is impossible to lubricate their weapons with constant daily wear. The bore should be lubricated with a very thin layer of oil. Grease can cause clots and cause a blow up or rupture.

A holster weapon brought from a frost into a warm room cannot be cleaned immediately – it must be warmed and sweat. Only after that it is wiped from moisture, dried and cleaned.

Weapons love affection, cleaning and lubrication. So they said in the Soviet army and spoke for a reason. For it has long been noted how you feel about weapons, and it will respond to you the same.


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