When it comes to servicing sniper level rifles, you will find more prohibitions than for any other weapon. This does not mean that sniper rifles are fragile. It is only that outwardly insignificant factors in lubrication, cleaning, and general care can impair the excellent accuracy that distinguishes sniper weapons. As in many other areas, your increased attention to detail will lead to excellent performance..
Service features for sniper-level rifles, accessories for cleaning and lubrication, oils, fluids and cleaners.
Here is the main prohibition if you do not have a torque wrench, do not remove the receiver and the barrel of the sniper level rifles from the box and do not try to “chemical” with the screws that connect them together. The precision shooting platform, as we call the sniper rifle, is joined together so precisely that even a few pounds per inch of torque can offset the bullet’s point of contact.
Sniper Rifle Cleaning Accessories.
The U.S. Army has been releasing a steel collapsible ramrod since World War I, which implies that it is the right tool for cleaning any rifles. But because of the solid steel from which this collapsible ramrod is made, it is never used for sniper rifles, because its hard edges can damage the bullet inlet in such a way that it slightly moves away the place in the chamber where the bullet cuts into cuts for the first time.
Instead, use a one-piece ramrod made of plastic, fiberglass, aluminum, or with a nylon coating that is softer than barrel bore steel. Flexible cable-pulling ramps are not suitable for warfare, as they cannot remove obstruction from your trunk. To remove interference, take a collapsible aluminum ramrod into the field.
Even using a soft ramrod, use a guide sleeve, a hollow device made of plastic, which is installed in the receiver after removing the shutter. It will correctly center your ramrod so that it smoothly enters through the chamber into the bore, preventing damage to the front edges of your rifling.
To clean the chamber use a copper brush with a diameter of 11.45 mm, and also use relatively soft copper brushes with a diameter of 7.62 mm for the bore. Steel brushes wear out the pool entrance and barrel. Watch the brush for wear, and change it as soon as the tips of the front bristles become wrinkled, as they perform 90 percent cleaning.
Some solvents can corrode copper brushes, which can be stopped by rinsing them after use in rubbing alcohol. You can use a ramrod tip with a hole to hold your fabric patches (patches), although rifle purists prefer serrated tips. A good toothbrush, drifts, and toothpicks will complement your sniper level rifle cleaning tools.
Lubricants and cleaners for lubricating and cleaning sniper rifles.
Rifles in which bedding is epoxy-based require special care because solvents can seep into the receiver area and turn this iron-hard material into a rubbery mass. Therefore, when cleaning the barrel bore of sniper-level rifles in which the bedding is epoxy-based, hold the barrel lower than the receiver so that any excess solvent will flow out of the barrel rather than flow into the bedding area.
Some arrows go one step further and fasten their screws in an inverted state during cleaning, making it impossible for the solvent to come into contact with the bottom of the receiver. This does not apply to rifles in which bedding is done on an aluminum block, such as an army rifle M24.
Serving sniper level rifles requires three different types of liquids:
solvents for removing carbon deposits, lead and copper plating,
lubricants to ensure smooth sliding of mating surfaces,
corrosion protection agents (inhibitors), especially for external, non-working surfaces.
Regarding some products, it is stated that they perform all of the above tasks, and some arrows swear by them. I think the only composition that comes close to this is Break Free, and even it doesn’t remove copper.
A number of old-time shooters, whom I respect, are advised to use different compositions for each of these tasks, and thereby guarantee that everything will be done well. For example, to clean the soot and dirt from the bore of your barrel, a really good bore cleaner is used, for example, Hoppe No. 9. To remove copper cladding and shiny metallic residues, there are several purifiers based on aqueous ammonia, the best known brands are Sweet’s 7.62 and Shooter’s Choice.
As for lubricants, I personally like those that have Teflon or graphite particles in the fluid, there are several brands. Just make sure you have real grease, not a combination of solvent and grease. However, such work will be done by any high-quality gun oil, such as Rem Oil. This high quality oil also serves as a rust preventative..
In fact, there are many good rust inhibitors, natural and synthetic. In the dry desert and dusty climatic conditions of Iraq and Afghanistan, powdered dust is a daily hazard. Probably the best dry lubricant I’ve met is Smooth-Kote and its tissue applicator, Tuf-Cloth. They are also suitable for use at temperatures below zero, as they do not thicken at low temperatures..
What is particularly impressive is that Smooth-Kote adheres to the metal at the molecular level, leaving a layer of molybdenum disulfide particles that lasts for a long time, almost constantly. Smooth-Kote and Tuf-Cloth lubricants work so well that they are included with every sniper..
Additional tools for servicing sniper rifles.
The only element I would add is a bag of granular silica gel to put it inside your rifle case. This bag absorbs moisture from the air and helps protect your rifle from moisture. The best types of silica gel are those that can be dried in the oven.
But I warn you – do not store your rifle in its case. Its soft foam padding retains moisture very easily and can quickly lead to rust in quality weapons.
Based on the book “The Perfect Sniper. Study Guide for Army and Police Snipers ».
Maj. John L. Plaster, USAR (Ret.)