You shouldn’t confuse a real taiga ax and a simple habitual tool, which often lies in the tools of a house. The taiga ax is a special kind that will help even in the most severe conditions of a hike or a hunt. To find such a tool at an inexpensive price is quite difficult, but with skills you can try to make it yourself.
- Special features
- 2An ax parts
- 2.1Metal head
- 2.2 Toporishche
- 3How to make a taiga ax
- 3.1 Manufacturing tool heads
- 3.2Production of ax
- 3.3 Assembling an ax
- 4Sharpening Rules
- 4.1Manual method
- 4.2 Mechanical
A good strong knife is an indispensable companion of any hunter, huntsman, hiker or forester. But in some cases, its power and size in the forest, and especially in Taiga, is not enough, or it is not very convenient to use. In this case, the ax comes to the rescue. Here are some examples of actions where he can definitely come in handy:
- Felling of trees and firewood;
- Processing logs, for example, cleaning the bark. For fine woodworking the ax will not work;
- Making hunting traps from wood;
- Installation of huts or simple wooden structures.
As you can see, all the rough work with wood easily lends itself to the taiga ax. With him you can build a shelter, and kindle a fire, and get prey.
A good taiga ax should be light enough for its use to bring results, not fatigue.
Usually the weight of the gun does not exceed 1400 grams. The bulk, of course, is contained in the metal part.
Components of an ax
In more detail, the features of the taiga ax are best considered by familiarizing yourself with the characteristics of its component parts. These include: a metal head and an ax.
The first striking difference between the metal part of the taiga ax and the usual joinery tool is the absence of the upper part in it. The blade also has not a standard straight shape, but a rounded one. This helps him to dig deeper into the wood. And also in the presence of such a blade, you can use a tool for cutting logs not along, but across the fibers.
The existing long beard firmly fixes the head with an ax, thereby reducing the risk of its fracture. It absorbs impact power up to 50-60%. This is a very important factor in the wild, where it is not possible to quickly repair a broken gun.
Butt at the taiga ax is standard. The head also has an eye where the ax is inserted. For tight fixation additionally hammer in a wooden wedge.
This part of the tool should be longer than that of the ordinary carpentry look. It is desirable that this figure was not less than 50 cm. This will allow you to conveniently hold a weapon and carry out sweeping actions.
When connecting two parts of the instrument, it is necessary to take into account that the angle of inclination between them should not be the usual 90 degrees, but a smaller figure. Approximately you can navigate to 65-75 degrees. And one more important criterion is that the ax handle with its length has the maximum light weight. Otherwise, the hands quickly get tired of working with an ax.
How to make a taiga ax
Unfortunately, not everyone will be able to forge a new ax out of steel. But if the desire to have a real taiga ax is great, and prices in stores seem too high, you can try to make it out of a regular carpentry tool.
Tool head making
Before you start working with the metal head of an ordinary ax, it should be examined for the presence of corrosion. If it is available, it is better to soak this part of the gun in a container with vinegar. By the time this will take at least a day. The remains of the substance are removed with a conventional brush.
The rest of the procedure is as follows:
- The front part of the metal part is cut. This must be done flush with the butt. If there is a projection of 5-7 degrees, then nothing is scary, but ideally it is better to remove it;
- With the help of a Bulgarian saw or emery wheel, the back of the blade is cut down, giving it a rounded shape;
- A semicircle is cut out on the inside or, one may say, of the lower part of the head. This will not only make the girth of the instrument comfortable, but also significantly reduce its initial weight;
- You can skip this step, but if you want to comply with all the conditions of the structure of the taiga ax, then it is better to comply with it. Both angles of the butt are cut. This step increases the maneuverability of the gun;
Metal ax head is ready, it remains only to properly sharpen.
Making ax handle
It is necessary to pay attention to the manufacture of the ax handle no less than the metal part. After all, the ease of use of the tool will depend on the correct geometry.
This part of the gun is made of wood. The simplest option is considered to be pine due to its light grinding and processing properties. But there is a risk of its fast breaking. Also, attention should be paid to such types of trees as birch, maple and ash. The length is chosen at personal discretion: from 50 to 80 cm. In some cases, a size of 100-120 cm may be more convenient.
The process of making an ax handle includes the following steps:
- The workpiece from which the ax will be made is determined. Its diameter must be at least 13 cm, and the length is 20 cm longer than the final version;
- The billet is cleaned. After that, they split it exactly in the middle and leave to dry for a long time, preferably not less than 8 weeks. It is important to consider that the humidity in the room should not be too high, and the desired temperature is maintained within 22-25 degrees;
- Dried workpiece is treated with a chisel. In this matter a small hammer may also be useful. At this stage, it is important to observe the correct form of the toporishcha, which means that it is better to glance at the drawings and diagrams.
If this is the first self-made ax, then it is better not to hurry in order to prevent form errors. Professionals in this field will need a minimum of time.
When both parts of the tool are ready, it remains only to connect them. To do this, usually use epoxy resin and a piece of ordinary gauze or medical bandage. For additional fixation of the metal head on the ax, wooden wedges are hammered.
Immediately use the tool does not work, you must wait at least 2 days. In order to protect the ax from corrosion, it should, after sharpening and grinding, be coated with a special agent. Taiga ax ready to use.
A good hunter or forester always has an ax, because there is nothing worse than being in the forest with a blunt instrument. As mentioned above, the sharpening of the blade in the taiga species is distinguished by its rounded steep shape. This allows the blade not only to carry out work on the tree more efficiently, but also to dull less frequently.
It is quite a laborious process, but for lovers of caring for their tools, it can on the contrary come to taste. To begin with, a special template is made according to the dimensions of the tool. Make it from a piece of tin, determining the correct angle of sharpening. The ax is applied to the finished pattern. And if there is a deflection angle, it is marked and processed.
For manual sharpening, they often take a wooden bar and glue it over with sandpaper. It must be coarse and with fine grain. Sharpening is done by the blade itself. It is noted that one such bar can be enough for the whole season.
With a special machine, the process will go much faster and easier. But here, too, has its own nuances.
Mechanical sharpening is carried out as follows:
- Install the machine on a flat surface;
- Using a marker, mark the change in the angle of the blade. This step is done if necessary;
- Sharpen at low speeds, holding the ax with the blade away from you;
- At the end of the process, the grinding wheel of the device is lubricated with a finishing paste. Then the instrument is polished on it;
- Sharpened tools are treated with anti-corrosion agent.
In order for the ax to not get blunt quickly, it should be stored in a special protective case. You should never throw an ax on the ground. And in order to protect yourself from possible injuries, you must necessarily sharpen the tool with protective gloves.
The ax will please for a long time with working capacity, if you do not try to cut them with stones and too hard objects. And also when felling it is best to put a little forested wood under the timber.