Wobbler, manufacturing a wobbler, casting and baking a wobbler from polystyrene foam, making molds and preparing liquid polystyrene.

Wobbler is a popular bait among spinningists, which many prefer to do on their own. As a rule, a wobbler is made of wood. But due to the fact that when creating a wobbler, very high requirements are imposed on wood, which, perhaps, only cedar and mahogany fully meet, it is reasonable to think of what else a wobbler can be made of. 

Wobbler, manufacturing a wobbler, casting and baking a wobbler from polystyrene foam, manufacturing a mold and preparing liquid polystyrene.

An alternative to a wooden wobbler may well be a foam wobbler. Polyfoam is generally a great material for all kinds of crafts. Not only the wobblers in question are good from polystyrene, but also other crafts for the fisherman — floats, fishing rod handles for winter fishing rods, winders, boxes for various fishing trifles.

Unfortunately, this remarkable lightweight material has significant drawbacks – porosity and low strength. At the slightest carelessness in handling, it cracks and breaks. The strength of a foam product can be significantly increased if it is coated with an even layer of epoxy glue. When the glue dries, a hard crust forms on the foam. To make the product even more durable, glue can be applied several times.

The intermediate layers must be dried for at least 6 hours, and the last – at least a day. The resulting hard layer should first be treated with a wide flat file to remove all sorts of bumps, and then cleaned with an emery cloth. After polishing, the product will gain a pleasant shine. And most importantly – you get a reliable hard coating. It can also be made colored by adding a nitro-based dye to the glue.

From foam, you can make a certain analogue of glue-varnish, with which you can repair broken foam products. To do this, pieces of foam need to be dissolved in acetone or solvent No. 647.

Foam wobbler casting and baking, mold making.

In the manufacture of a wobbler foam can play a somewhat unusual role. The wobbler is not cut out of the foam, but is cast and baked. But first you need to make a shape for the future wobbler. To do this, you need the original wobbler.

Prepare a cardboard box. The original wobbler should be coated with soapy water or vegetable oil. The tongue is optional. Pour plaster or cement into the box (cement molds are stronger) and drown the original wobbler halfway sideways. When the solution hardens a little, make guides in the corners. It is not necessary to level out irregularities. Wait for the solution to set. After that, you can take out the wobbler and make the second half of the mold similarly.

Plaster mold for foam wobbler.

Wobbler, manufacturing a wobbler, casting and baking a wobbler from polystyrene foam, making molds and preparing liquid polystyrene.

The thickness of the gypsum or cement should not be too small, otherwise the form will break easily. About 5 cm for bait up to 2 cm thick. The wire frame reinforcement will give additional strength to the gypsum mold. The base of the future wobbler can be made from any wire, even from paper clips. It’s better to solder the soft wire near the rings.

Closer to the bow, attach lead. Its mass is regulated buoyancy wobbler, as well as the position of the center of gravity. The optimal mass and location of the load is selected experimentally. It would be nice to sketch the location of the cargo, record its mass (height, width and thickness of the plate), and after manufacturing – the position of the wobbler in water and its characteristics. It’s easier to duplicate successful instances.

Selection of cargo space on a wobbler.

Wobbler, manufacturing a wobbler, casting and baking a wobbler from polystyrene foam, making molds and preparing liquid polystyrene.

Ideally equipped with tees, the wobbler should swim in the water with its head slightly bowed. The load does not need to be centered exactly along the axis. With a shifted load, the bait sometimes plays much better, simulating a sick fish. This does not apply, however, to deep wobblers, they are very sensitive to inaccuracies, and if the load is shifted, the bait will jump to the surface after a short deepening.

Use thin wire to wrap thin sticks for strength. Enough sticks 1-2 mm thick. In the tail, their presence is required. Otherwise, the wobbler breaks easily. The frame of the future wobbler should go into shape easily. And the form itself must close tightly.

Liquid Foam Preparation for Wobbler Casting.

Now proceed to prepare the liquid foam. To do this, you need to pour acetone into a small container with a wide neck and dissolve as much foam from various packages in it as possible until a thick, viscous mass forms. Wet hands (it is better to wear rubber medical gloves to avoid chemical burns) stretch and a little (10-20 seconds) to dry the resulting mass in the air.

Crumple again. And so several times. The longer it dries, the less it will stick to the mold. Having finished the preparation of the foam “dough”, wrap the frame with the resulting mass, stretching it like a rope. There is no need to fill the entire mold with foam. It is enough to fill 75% of its volume, since during further processing the hardening foam will expand.

Assembled baking dish for foam wobblers.

Wobbler, manufacturing a wobbler, casting and baking a wobbler from polystyrene foam, making molds and preparing liquid polystyrene.

The resulting design should be put into shape. If a place for a tongue was provided in the form, it is better to adapt it to the place immediately. Put double boards on top and bottom of the mold so as not to spoil the plaster mold during further work. Wrap it all with rope. Push the wedges into the ropes. You can use a clamp. The main goal of this operation is to prevent the foam from expanding its shape when it begins to expand during baking.

Foam roasting in the manufacture of a wobbler.

The filled and bonded form should be placed in the oven on the smallest fire. Do not forget to turn on the hood and open the window – despite the lack of smell. After an hour, remove the mold from the oven and let it cool to room temperature. No need to rush, otherwise your work can go down the drain.

If pieces break away from the form, and this happens often, it can still be used several times. The blanks will no longer be perfectly smooth, but the bulges are easily cut with a knife. If desired, chips on the form can be covered with plaster. After complete cooling, you can pull out the finished wobbler from the mold. Styrofoam residues stuck in the form can be removed by pre-soaking them with acetone.

Plexiglass is well suited for reeds. In the resulting wobbler, a jigsaw is made to cut the desired width. The tongue should go in tight. Before inserting it into the wobbler, slightly lubricate the base of the tongue with varnish or glue. For large wobblers, you can use plexiglass up to 3 mm thick. The tongue can be attached to the place before baking. In the oven, nothing will happen to him, and you don’t have to bother with a jabber.

Wobbler Testing.

Before painting, the wobbler must be equipped with tees, a leash and tested in the bath. If it’s obvious that no one will be at a loss for his game, then you can try to adjust the balance with additional weights (provided that the tongue is glued evenly), introducing them into the body of the fish. First, it is necessary to evaluate the feasibility of this event by gluing flat loads on top of the proposed place of implementation.

Reduce the load you like in volume, drill or burn a hole in the wobbler, insert it in and putty. If this does not help, break off the foam from the base and next time use another load in another place. If you are completely satisfied with the test of the resulting wobbler, you can proceed to coloring it.

With the resulting blanket, remove all unnecessary. If there are holes – putty them, you can use ordinary putty for painting work, and dry it. Before painting, it is necessary to cover the workpiece with a thin layer of epoxy glue, since most paints dissolve the foam, and dry for a couple of days.

Based on the materials of the book “Fishing tackle and do-it-yourself hunting equipment. Production and repair “.
Storozhev Konstantin.

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